I've been using the Mapserver binary included in FWTools for awhile now, and been very happy with it. It comes out-of-the-box with the lovely AGG driver included, as well as Python mapscript. When combined with the extensive odd-format support that Frank includes in the gdal and ogr tools, and the fact that it's all self-contained, it really makes it hard to beat. Of course inevitably you're going to find that something has to be left out, and I just found 2 of them - PDF output format, and null grid shifting support. The first isn't critical, but the second is a potential deal breaker, as I believe it is causing reprojection artifacts to be created in my Google Map tiles. So, it's probably time to figure out, and document, a reliable way to build MapServer from source, since "Oh by the way", the apt-get version of Mapserver lacks AGG support. Go figure.